Italy is a country with 20 regions each offering its own distinct styles when it comes to wine. In addition, each region has different wine producing areas that turn out vastly different types of wine. The majority of wines are solid, every day drinking wines meant to be consumed young and with the local cuisine. There are also many wines that are much more complex and age worthy. The best way to get a grasp on all of the different regions and areas is to learn about the classification of the regions, or areas, that was drawn up in 1963 to bring Italy more in line with the rest of the European Continent.

VdT (Vino di Tavola)

Wines labeled VdT can come from anywhere in Italy and can be comprised of any grape or combination of grapes and require no special rules for the winemaking process. The vast majority of these wines are mass produced and sold in bulk at osterie or the corner enoteca (wine store). This is not to say that these wines are bad or not worth drinking. They just do not fall under the more stringent guidelines of the following categories. In fact, until the 1980's most super-Tuscan wines were labeled under this category.

IGT (Indicazione Geographica Tipica)

This category was created in 1992 with the actual appellations being drawn in 1995 in order to further bring Italy in line with the rest of Europe. These wines fall between the VdT and DOC wines and constitute a larger population of 'classified' wines. IGT indicates that a wine comes from a particular geographic area. That is it, nothing else. Although most of these wines will indicate the grape or grapes in the wine there is no rule stating that it must be done. Also, the methods used to make the wine are not as strictly monitored as in the DOC designation.

DOC (Denominazione Origie Controllata)

Created in 1963 this is the most important designation for Italian wines. When you see a wine with DOC on the label it is telling you that the wine comes from a specific place (or zone) and that certain (and often very strict) rules were followed in the winemaking process. It outlines exactly where the grapes are grown and what grapes can and cannot go into the wine and, often times, how long the wine must be aged before it is released. Some DOC's also require that the wine be made where the grapes are grown and set strict limits on grape growing. Every year samples are sent to committees and tested to ensure that the standards are being met. Today 20-25% of all wine produced in Italy carries the DOC designation comprising more than 300 zones with each zone including any number of wine types. The first DOC granted was in 1966 and went to the famous white wine of Tuscany Vernaccia di San Gimignano.

DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata Garantita)

This designation was created along with the DOC and takes it one step further in that these wines (zones) are 'guarenteed.' The first zone to receive DOCG status did not do so until 1980 - Brunello di Montalcino. The DOCG zones include most of the more historic Italian wines which had self-imposed restrictions and delimited production zones before 1963. These 24 zones (and wines) are the most rigidly controlled and are:

Piedmont

Asti
Barbaresco
Barolo
Brachetto d'Acqui
Gattinara
Gavi/Cortese di Gavi
Ghemme

Lombardy

Franciacorta
Valtellina Superiore

Veneto

Bardolino
Recioto di Soave

Emilia-Romagna

Albana di Romagna

Friuli

Ramandolo

Tuscany

Brunello di Montalcino
Carmignano
Chianti
Chianti Classico
Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

Umbria

Montefalco Sagrantino
Torgiano Rosso Riserva

Campania

Taurasi

Sardinia

Vermentino di Gallura

Abruzzo

Montepulciano D'Abruzzo

An example of a DOC(G) designation would be similar to:
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (1980)

The zone is about 20 miles south of Siena with the east and west boundaries being the Ombrone and Orcia rivers with altitudes rising over 500 meters in some parts (The zones are much more specific but they are just given in general terms here). The climate is a mix of continental and Mediterranean with calcareous clay soils in the north and sandier clay towards the southern part of the zone. The wine must be made with 100% of the Brunello clone of the Sangiovese grape. It must age a minimum of 2 years in oak barrels of which no specific size is given. The total required aging time is 4 years, 5 years for riserva with a minimum of 6 months in bottle. The wine cannot be released for sale until the 1st of January, 5 years after the vintage year (for example, a 1996 Brunello cannot be released until January 1, 2001). Riservas cannot be released until 6 years after the vintage year.

Important Italian Wine Grapes

WHITE

Arneis
If you are in a wine bar in the Piemonte region of Italy this is the white of choice for everyday drinking. This grape was traditionally used to blend into the heavier reds of the region to soften them. However, in recent years there has been a surge in planting and quality. The grape produces floral, citrus laced whites. A wine to quench your thirst or with a light fish course.

Cortese
Less aromatic than Arneis this grape is the base for the other popular white of Piedmont, Gavi. It is also labeled under the name Cortese. Another fine, easy white with citrus notes that the locals will quaff on a warm summer day. A great wine as an aperitif or with fish.

Vermentino
This dry white is the star of region of Sardegna. The grape can reach heights on this island completely unattainable in other parts of the Mediterranean. This varietal produces wines that are tangy, spicy, flavorful with a layer of juicy melon to them. Vermentino would go well with very light seafood pasta dishes and fish courses. Could also be drunk as an aperitif.

Vernaccia
One of Tuscany's most historic grapes (and wines) it produces light and fragrant whites very limited to the area around San Gimignano. At its best, Vernaccia can be a floral, crisp wine with notes of almond on the finish. Recently producers have been blending some Chardonnay and/or Vermentino to the mix for body and complexity. A bit more body lends this wine to first courses and to most fish dishes although it would not go well with meats or pasta.

Moscato Bianco
This is the Italian name for the French grape, Muscat a Petits Grains. It is used in the famous frizzante and spumante wines of the Asti DOCG, the most productive of all 23 DOCG's. The wines can vary from very sweet with peachy characteristics, as in Moscato D'Asti, to dry, crisp, fully sparkling wines meant to be drunk as an aperitif or with a first fish course.

RED

Montepulciano
This very versatile grape is grown in various regions of Italy including Tuscany, Abruzzo and Le Marche. It is a deep purple grape that produces wines that are dense, dark and inky with juicy fruit (black currant, raspberry and cherry) and sweet tannins. These wines are the perfect accompaniment for stuffed pork, duck or even a grilled steak.

Barbera
This grape flourishes in the hills of Piedmont, hence it is the most planted red in the region. Once considered too harsh to drink, now it is the rising star of the region. Regular Barbera is easy to drink when young but some producers are raising the bar for this varietal. Some of the single-vineyard Barbera's will rival the best of Italy's red wines. The perfect wine for duck and pasta dishes.

Dolcetto
'The little sweet one', in the local Piemontese dialect, this varietal is deeply colored with soft tannins and plush fruit flavors. It ripens early and produces soft, accessible, dry wines that the locals drink as their normal red wine of choice with the local cuisine. Great as an aperitif or with lighter first courses such as salumi, Bruschetta, etc.

Nebbiolo
Named for la Nebbia (the fog) that enshrouds the hills of Barolo and Barbaresco this is Italy's answer to Pinot Noir. Believed to be a native of Piedmont, dating back to the 14th century, this late-ripening, very sensitive grape produces the most unique and powerful reds in all of Italy. Both Barolo and Barbaresco are made with 100% Nebbiolo. Barolo is often referred to as the King of Wines and the Wine of Kings with Barbaresco serving as the Queen. The more accessible wine when young would be Barbaresco, which some say is more elegant. When made properly they can both be enjoyed quite young and age for decades. Outside of Barolo and Barbaresco you can find outstanding wines made of 100% Nebbiolo, such as Gattinara, as well as "Super-Piedmont" blends made with Nebbiolo and Barbera and sometimes Cabernet. It is also planted in Lombardy and Valle d'Aosta where it makes fine wines but that do not reach the heights of the Piedmontese wines. Although Nebbiolo has been planted outside of Italy (California) nowhere does it express itself like in the Piedmont. There is some debate as to whether or not Barolo and Barbaresco need food or not. Some say they are a meal in themselves and food would ruin them, while the other camp insists food can only enhance the experience of drinking one of the greatest wines on the planet. You will have to decide for yourself. Brasato al Barolo (beef braised in Barolo wine) or Tajarin con Tartufo (fresh fettucine with white truffle) would be the ultimate indulgence with a bottle of Barolo or Barbaresco.

Sangiovese
One of Italy's noble grapes it is, along with its many clones, the base for such wines as Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino (Brunello clone), Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Prugnolo clone) and Morellino di Scansano (Morellino clone) as well as the super-Tuscans that have gained so much popularity over the past 20 years. It is a wild variety native to Italy first discovered by the Etruscans. It has smoky, cherry, herbaceous characteristics and produces wines which run the gamut from youthful and easy to drink to some of the most interesting, complex and age worthy wines Italy has to offer. Grilled, roasted or braised meats, heavier pasta dishes and Tuscan cheese are all perfect accompaniments for wines made with Sangiovese.

Corvina (Valpolicella/Amarone)
A dark berried, thick skinned, juicy, spicy grape used as the main varietal in Valpolicella and, hence, Amarone della Valpolicella and Recioto della Valpolicella. It has firm tannins and contributes a rich, cherry characteristic to the wine.